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Olbia and Tempio Pausania – two new capitals in Sardinia

In 2005, the four existing Sardinian Provinces became eight with the amalgama-tion of four new provinces. In doing so, the newly founded province, Olbia-Tempio, simultaneously received two new capitals, Olbia and Tempio

Olbia

“The Happy Ones” - this is the Greek meaning to the name of the most impor-tant economic and industrial city in the Gallura, which also boasts the most out-standing tourist harbour in Sardinia. The inhabitants are, no doubt, thrilled by the steadily increasing number of tourists arriving annually by ferry on the north coast of Sardinia and at the end of the Isola Bianca, though generally they are taken straight away to Costa Smeralda in the north or to the southern beach resorts.
A very popular gateway for tourists is the airport Costa Smeralda, located in the southern outskirts and about 3 kilometres from the centre.
Olbia is directly located on the Golfo di Olbia, which stretches to the peninsula Golfo Aranci in the north and to Capo Ceruso in the south ,with its impressive 560 metres high cliffs of the Isola Tavolara .Olbia additionally has excellent rail links to Cagliari, Sassari, Porto and Torres.

From a tourist point of view, Olbia, however, offers no special attractions. Even though Olbia was founded by the Punier in the 6th century before Christ, barely anything historically or culturally significant has survived - neither an old town centre, which could lure the tourists with its quiet quarters, nor narrow alleys or wonderful views.
The ruins of the thermal baths and the aqueduct are the only surviving ancient artefacts bearing witness to the prosperous period that culminated in the trading centre of Fausania during the time of the Romans. The downfall of the Roman Empire initiated the breakdown of the city that only regained its power around the year 1000, and became the main location of the judicatory Gallura, though now bearing the name Civita.
The city, which, if you consider its ever changing history, is anything but ”happy” was finally renamed, under the rule of the Pisanians, to the free city “Terranova” (Newland) and was given to the Spanish. The city lost its impor-tance again under their rule, until it once more regained its name, Olbia, in 1939.

The inhabitants of the, (once again), happy city nowadays mainly exist from tourism, especially from air- and sea traffic, fishing and mussel cultivation. Even if you are passing through, you should get an impression of Olbia and its centre Piazza Margherita with a short flying visit. From this point, you can reach the harbour by wandering along the elegant promenade Corso Umberto, with its numerous bars, restaurants, cafes and shops.
A visit to the Chiesa San Paolo (a 13th century Church located in a side street not far form the Corso) is a church typical of the Gallura region with its amazing colourful dome and, which is really worth the visit.
One of the greatest architectural buildings of the city, however, is the three-aisled church San Simplicio from the 11th century, made of the dark grey granite of the Gallura, with its impressive Tuscan and Lombardic stylistic elements. Inside, Roman tombstones from the necropolis of the nearby surroundings can be seen.

If you have enough time or you rented a car in Olbia in order to reach your ac-tual holiday destination, you should visit the Nuraghian fortress Castello di Cabu Abbas, north of Olbia. Not far away from the similarly named church, a steep path leads you to the fortress from where you will have a magnificent view over the city and the coast with the isle Tavolare lying before you.

A bit further north, you will also encounter the fountain sanctuary Sa Testa, which should not be missed.

In the opposite direction, you will arrive at the beach resort Porto San Paolo. Olbia also has several other favourite beaches such as the Lido di Pittulongu, Spiaggia Bianca and the Lido del Sole, located close to the harbour, on the Padron lagoon.

If you are in the mood for a shopping tour, you are not restricted merely to Ol-bia’s city centre as a choice. If you drive north to San Teodoro, you can spend as much money as you want in the Auchan-shopping centre, which was built in the 1990’s in the commercial city of Città Mercato.

If you want to see how Olbia can party, then you should go to the airport or ferry port, at best in May, to San Simplicio, a festival including a church parade which honours the holy Simplicius, or in mid- August to the sea food festival “Sagra del Pesce e Calamaro”.

Tempio Pausania

If you travel to Tempio Pausania with the light railway train “Trenino Verde” (little green train), you will be welcomed by the paintings from Guiseppe Biasi (1885 – 1945), painted in 1930, which are displayed inside the city’s memorial train station.

Here, in the heart of the Gallura, in the midst of vineyards, oak and chestnut forests, the former capital of the region, which is now the provincial capital and, along with Olbia, is located at an altitude of almost 600 metres up the Monte Limbara, while its peak with its cragged shape stands guard over the city.
The mining of granite, the fermenting and pressing of wine and especially the production and processing of cork are some of the most important business sec-tors of the city, which has now become a favourite healing spa due to its mineral springs, beautiful old town and wonderful alleys.

Tempio was first mentioned in documents in 1173, which means that the city must have Roman origins and which developed from the amalgamation of the two cities, Gemellae and Templum.

Nowadays, you can stroll along the city’s promenade (Via Roma), which was constructed, along with the rest of the city, from original dark grey granite. If you are on a city round trip, the Piazza Gallura in the town centre with its im-pressive town hall, the Roman Ontario del Rosario with a majestic Baroque altar and the cathedral San Pietro (13th century) on the identically named Piazza, are all deserving of special attention.

The latter is not only an eye catcher because of its colourful facade mosaics, but also because of its remarkable church tower, which is probably one of the tallest on the whole island.

Another promenade to stroll along is the Viale Forte Nuova, which leads across a valley through holly oak forests to a pine forest and from where the spring Fonte Nuove bubbles out. From there you can stroll further along the Alle Viale San Lorenzo located in a grove with the spring Fonto di Rinaggiu. The Rinaggiu spring, which is famous for the healing powers of its water, is mostly visited by tourists who come prepared with bottles and canisters, though it also is a brilliant place for a picnic, too. Here, you can enjoy the spring water, the delicious Pecorino as well as the excellent Vermentino di Gallura or the Moscato di Tempio.

You can also visit a museum, which was built in honour of the world famous opera singer Bernardo de Muro (1881 – 1955), who was born here. The employ-ees of the Tourist Information Bureau, which is located in the beautiful old mar-ket hall at the Piazza Mercato, can advise you which other sights are worth see-ing. One tip, which you will certainly receive from the information centre, is the mineralogical museum in the nearby village of Bortigiadas and the excursion to the impressive rock formations of the “Valle della Luna” (valley of the moon).

Of course, Olbia’s twin capital Tempio has at least the same attractions as Olbia regarding festival entertainment. Visitors will certainly get their money’s worth in July during the international folklore festival and in September during the festivities in honour of the San Isidoro, which includes knights and an oxcart procession.

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